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The last topic in the Shapes of Beauty category is Lip Shapes. The lips could either be the focal point of the face or the part of the face to distract from. Lip shapes vary from very full lips to uneven lips. The curves or peaks of the upper lip should fall directly in line with the nostrils. Below you’ll find a list of different lip shapes and advice on how to best line your lips or wear lipstick according to your individual shape. Have a look at each shape to determine which one suits you best.
Wrinkled Lips: Keep the product toward the inner part of the mouth to avoid bleeding outside the lines. Use your favourite lip colour with lots of shine (or add a clear lip gloss over the lip colour) to reflect the light out of the lines on the lips.
Drooping Lips: To lift the outer corners of the lips, apply concealer and then powder the lips. Use the centre line of the lip and draw a line at the outer corners so that it tilts upwards. Shape the lips and fill with a lip colour of your choice.
Thin Lips: To create a fuller look on thin lips, apply concealer to the natural lip line and powder them. Then, using a lip liner of the same shade as the lipstick, draw in a line above the natural lip line and fill in with a light lip colour or gloss. Avoid using dark or dull colours on thin lips.
Uneven Lips: In order to even out the lips, create an even lip shape using a tapered brush and concealer. Once this is done, apply powder to the lips and then the lip liner to achieve the new shape. Lastly, fill in with the desired lip colour.
Flat Upper Lips: Apply concealer to the upper lip using the edge of a lip brush. Create a curved shape above the natural lip line and powder. To give definition to the lips, use a natural colour lip liner and fill the outline in with your favourite colour.
Full/Large Lips: To create the illusion of lips that are not so full, apply a thin layer of foundation onto the lips, powder and using a deeper tone lip liner, draw the line INSIDE the natural lip line and fill in with a complimenting matte texture. Avoid bright, light or shiny colours on full lips if you want them to appear less full!
Over-sized Upper Lip: To create a more balanced look, apply concealer and powder to the lips and then line the outside of the lower lip and the inside of the upper lip. Using a lighter shade of matching lip colour, highlight the lower lip.
Over-sized Bottom Lip: Use the same technique as above, but reverse it to create a thinner lower lip to balance the lips.
- Always use a tapered lip brush and a concealer that simulates the natural colouring around the lip line when changing the lip shape.
- To recreate the lip shape, apply concealer at the lip line as every mouth has its own natural shape and line surrounding the lips. When you change the shape of the mouth the natural lip line MUST be added or “put back” to create an illusion and to give the lips dimension so they look real and not “placed” on the face.
- To ensure that you do not draw attention to any deep nasolabial folds (laugh lines) apply the lip liner to arch INWARD toward the mouth and not OUTWARD which will highlight this area.
For those with full cheeks, arching the line INWARD will help give the illusion of less fullness in this area.