eye shapes

EYE SHAPES

The basics of eye makeup application begin with determining the shape of your eyes. It will allow better judgement and make you stand out apart from the crowd. It is known that the focal point of the face is the eyes so understanding how the eyes are shaped and the spacing of it will determine the placement of color and the effect it creates.

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Wide-set Eyes

Wide-set eyes usually have more than an eye width space in between. To visually bring the space between the eyes closer to one another, bring a darker eyeshadow colour from the outer corner of the eye closer to the middle of the eyelid. You may use more intense eye shadow colors near the inner corner of the eyes. You can also draw your eyebrows closer to one another to make wide-set eyes appear closer together. Contouring your nose can also help in reducing the distance between the eyes.

Down-turned Eyes

The outer corner of the eye is lower than the inner corner of the eye. Avoid applying eyeshadow that follows the shape of the eye. Instead, apply the contour eyeshadow shade up and out. To lift droopy eyes, apply eyeliner in the inner edge and a thicker smudged one at the outer edge towards an upward angle. Like a cat winged line. Curl your lashes and apply more mascara on the outer lashes for an overall lifted look.

Almond Eyes

Also known as the “ideal or perfect eyes” because they are evenly spaced. Evenly spaced means that the average space between two eyes is the width of an eye. Almond-shaped eyes are the most common type. They are proportionately sized to the rest of the facial features and have a slight upward lift at the outer corner of the eyes to suggest a more youthful looking appearance. Almond-shaped eyes are very versatile to many kinds of makeup looks. So if you have them, dare to experiment with funky colors, deeper colors, different eye shadow placements and thicker eyeliner progressing outwards to intensify the eyes.

Close-set Eyes

Close-set eyes usually have less than an eye width space in between. To create the illusion of a wider gap between the eyes, keep more intense eyeshadow colours at the far corners of the eyes. Do not place dark eye shadows more than 1/3 into the lids as that would make the eyes appear even nearer to one another. Apply more mascara on the outer corner of the eye to build volume out wards. You can also draw your eyebrows further apart to ‘pull’ the eyes away from each other.

Protruding / Prominent Eyes

Eyes that protrude forward, almost bulging out. Protruding/Prominent eyes do not imply puffiness. The goal of this eye shape is to reduce the appearance of bulge and make the eyes not dominate the rest of the facial features. Apply a medium shade on the upper lid to immediately tone down the pronounced eyelid. You want to use dark colours to recede the prominence or protruding of the eye. Then use eyeliner and line the lash bases from corner to corner to remove the spotlight on the pronounced eyelid.

Hooded Eyes

This happens when the skin on the outer area of the eye starts to sag, thus covering more of the eye. You want to create the illusion of lifted eyes and a higher well-defined contour. Draw the eyeliner thicker as you go towards the outer corner of the eye. Add a wing to lift the eyes visually. Avoid using harsh black eyeshadow to cover the entire eyelid. Also avoid bringing dark eyeshadow colours too much into the eyelid from the outer 1/3 of the eye as doing so will make the eyes appear smaller. Eyeliner plays an important part in opening hooded eyes.

Deep-set Eyes

Dark shadows above the eyes, below the brow bone. To bring out deep-set eyes, use paler shades around the eyes to enhance them. Use a slightly darker eyeshadow colour at the contour area (try not to use black) and blend towards the brow bone. Apply thin eyeliner along the lash line. A thick eyeliner line will make the eyes disappear underneath the brow bone.

Asian Eyes

Much less of the white of the eye and pupil can be seen. Make the eyes appear bigger and rounder by applying light shadow on the lids and dark black eyeliner at the base of the eyelashes. Widen the thickness of the eyeliner while you transfer out towards the outer corners of the eyes. A little upward tick at the outside corner will add lift to the eyes. Apply white eyeliner on the bottom waterline to open the eyes. For small eyes, try to keep using dark eyeshadow colours to a minimum as they will just close up your eyes. Instead, work on creating lush lashes with double coats on both upper and lower eyelashes.

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Eyebrows are essential to completing your look and understanding what your Face and Eye Shapes are.  As the eyes are the focal point of the face, the way you shape your eyebrows will definitely compliment the eye and how you do your makeup.

If you would like a lesson on how to best apply your eye makeup then feel free to contact me via email nadia@nadiatamaralee.com

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